Pleating Workshop (08/11/11)

The aim of today's session was to explore the world of pleating. 
Techniques which we used were, folding paper into pleats and using it as a template to make perfect pleating. 

pleatnoun

1. a fold of definite, even width made by doubling cloth or the like upon itself and pressing or stitching it in place.

The first exercise was to create knife pleats

To create the pleats, I began by folding a card template into the shape of the pleats, which I used to iron over the fabric to create the pleats with.

Its really easy to create knife pleats.
The first steps are to divide the paper horizontally and equally into lines which are separated within 3 centemetres, leaving a gap every 6 centemetres.

The next steps are to fold the lines the same direction.

Folded paper

The next step is to fit the fabric inbetween the card and press it with the iron.

The next process I undertook was to make box pleats. To create those pleats, I used the same folded card except i changed the directions of some of the folds.

Here is the result of the Box pleating.

The next exercise that we undertook was to create '' Herringbone'' pleating.

This is my first try, It took me a long time to understand the pattern of folding the paper, and I also chose a poor quality of card as it did not hold its shape too well.

Here is my second try, This time i used the same Card but i doubled it to give it more structure and to prepare to pleat a piece of fabric with it.

Here is the video of the full instructions, where Carol explains the process in detail. (filmed by Anna Roditi)

(Part 1.)

(Part 2.)

Here is the result of my pleated fabric. It was hard to establish the proper shape of the pleat and to keep it because i chose an unsuitable fabric for pleating - Cotton Jersey, it doesn't hold its shape and it does not allow to be pleated. I should have chosen a man-made fabric which would have been easier to work with.

There are many different techniques for pleating, which are always both very difficult to achieve and beautiful to look at.

http://trendland.net/uncovering-the-2008-graduation-talent-of-royal-academy-of-fine-art-antwerpen/#more-9558

Celine Spring/Summer 2012 Collection.

Here we can see a pleated skirt, combined by two different fabrics. The left side looks a lot like leather or latex, or it might be just waxed to give the shiny effect. on the other side we can see a very silky fabric with a good drape. There is a drastic combination between the two fabrics which makes it really interesting.

David Koma Spring Summer 2011